Tip of the Month: Slow Food recommends
that we participate in the National Eat-In by joining or organizing an eat-in
on Labor Day -- September 7th.What's an eat-in?It's a pot-luck
gathering in a public space, this one with the message to Congress that "It's
time to provide America's
children with real food at school."
Food Focus: Salad Dressing
The
case for olive oil.It tastes good!If that's not reason enough: it's also good
for you, in part because of a phytochemical called hydroxytyrosol which has an
anti-inflammatory effect.Usually we
look to omega-3 fatty acids for that, but olive oil -- if extra virgin -- can
contribute as well. (The Anti-Inflammation
Zone,
B.Sears, 2005)
The
case for unrefined, expeller-pressed oil.Paul Pitchford
tells us that "unrefined" is the most important word on the label because such
oil hangs on to its vitamin E and is therefore less likely to go rancid.Refining also eliminates other vitamins and
minerals. Unrefined oil has been
expeller-pressed, a mechanical process, and not extracted through the use of
chemical solvents.Cold-pressed is
important, too, but beware! "Cold" can be 160F or less -- some labels will tell
you. (Healing With Whole Foods, P.Pitchford, 1993)
What
about other oils, like sesame and canola? Sesame oil, like olive oil, can be extracted by pressing
at low temperatures.Although high in
omega-6 fatty acids (which tend to promote inflammation), sesame oil contains
particular lignans which tend to inhibit
that process.Canola, aka rapeseed, oil
would be OK, but who can truly say it's free of genetic modification?However, not everyone worries about that.
Now that you've spent all your
pocket money on expensive oil, what else will you need?Fortunately, raw apple cider vinegar or
organic lemons are less expensive. Sea salt, pepper, and mustard are also
affordable.
When you combine these
ingredients, they will separate, which is why we whisk or shake the dressing
vigorously before pouring it on.Suppose
you'd like an amalgamated dressing -- what should you do?According to chef Dominick Jones, there are four
ways to get oil and vinegar to marry.One involves sugar; one
involves mustard; one involves egg yolk; and one involves lecithin.That is why sugar or honey and mustard turn
up in so many dressing recipes. Egg yolk gets us into mayonnaise.But most of us have never used lecithin and
only know it as a nearly ubiquitous ingredient in processed food.Why? Precisely because of its ability to
emulsify.If you want to combine your
oil and vinegar, take two cups of olive oil, sprinkle one teaspoon of GMO-free
soy lecithin on it, warm it to hand heat, and let it stand for several hours
until it dissolves.That oil will then
more easily combine with water-based solutions, such as vinegar. Reserve what
you don't want now in a dark container in a cool place for future use. (Unpublished recipe by
Dominick Jones)
If the lecithin is too much
fuss and bother, simply shake your salad dressing in the usual way just before
you apply it.
A word about Balsamic vinegar for those of you who
like it: you may never have tasted the traditional product from Italy,
which takes a dozen years to age.Some commercially
available imitationsare made of wine
vinegar with coloring and caramel added, and possibly thickeners.I would stick with apple cider vinegar
(Bragg, for instance) with its "mother" intact.
Basic Recipe: Salad Dressing
The proportion of oil to
vinegar is up to you.4:1 is standard;
3:1 gives more bite; 5:1 is more oleaginous.
Ingredients:
ˇ1
tablespoon of apple cider vinegar or lemon juice
ˇ1/2
a teaspoon of mayonnaise (optional)
ˇ1/2
a teaspoon of mustard
ˇ3-5
tablespoons of olive oil
ˇSea
salt and pepper to taste
Mix everything except the oil
and add that slowly while whisking.Taste it after 3 tablespoons and again at 4.
Other ingredients I like
include yogurt, tahini (sesame paste), dried dill, and garlic.
Shake vigorously before
applying it to your salad or cold vegetables.